New! Heat Protection Idea!

 

This weekend (or any weekend) by Jennifer Joseph

If you are coming to the puppy match, or on your way to a show, let's talk summer safety tips. 

The main one. If you are traveling with dogs in the summer, carry 3-5 gallons of water per dog. Why? If you break down somewhere and have no AC, you can at least get the dog soaked to the skin and in the shadow of your car or a building. MISTING IS NOT GOING TO DO IT. SOAK TO THE SKIN. A wet to the skin dog will have a hard time overheating. And soaking down a dog at the first sign of over-heating can prevent disaster. 

I broke down once on I-5. 110 degrees out, 40 miles from anything. The tow truck driver would not et me put the three dogs in the cab, they had to stay in the dead van. I saturated them with water, rolled the windows down and we stopped to check on them every 10 miles. thanks to being wet and with the air rushing through the car, they made it without any real problem. Not fun but not a disaster. 

Fans are great of course, consider bringing umbrellas or pop up shade too. 

Cool coats, pads and collars are nice additions. 

And remember, if the ground is too hot for your feet, it's too hot for the dog's too! 

See everyone at the shows!                                                                                                        Reproduced with Ms. Joseph's permission. Thank you!

 

 

THE BULLDOG CLUB
OF AMERICA

BASIC CARE FOR YOUR BULLDOG

This information comes from a pamphlet produced by the BCA Division 5 Education Committee. It is reproduced with permission.

 

Bulldogs are special. Bulldogs are different. Those of us who have had Bulldogs for several years still remember our first Bulldog and how much we didn't know about them.

That's why the Board of Governors or the Bulldog Club of America Division 5 feel a booklet on basic care of the Bulldog would he helpful to Bulldog owners, particularly those who have just gotten their very first Bulldog Puppy.

In addition to the members of the BCA Division 5 Education Committee, information for this booklet has been provided by Aanneglenn Bulldogs (Carol & Hank Williams), Kaysinger Bulldogs (Genevieve & Oman Kaysinger) and Windy Ridge Bulldogs (Neva Gulliford). All together the contributors have 163 years experience as owners of Bulldogs, have raised 177 litters, and currently own 46 Bulldogs.

The main things we've learned about Bulldogs are: You never learn it all; Bulldogs give and need lots of love and attention; Bulldoggers are always ready and willing to help you; a good veterinarian who knows and likes Bulldogs is an absolute necessity.

Bulldogs are wonderful companions - you'll have a great time with your very own, very special Bulldog.

 

BCA Division 5 Education Committee; Joey Bernstein; Joanne Carder; Linda Kilgor; Cathy Revell

 

Bringing Baby Home

When you get your puppy, you should also receive from the breeder: either the puppy's Registration Certificate or its Application for Registration; a copy of its pedigree; a record of its immunizations (exactly what shots and when given) and wormings; assurance that the puppy has been examined by a veterinarian and the name and telephone number of the veterinarian. If you do not receive one of these items you should get a written, dated and signed statement from the breeder stating when you will receive that item or why you will not.

You may also receive: a sales contract (if the puppy is sold on a Limited Registration you should received a sales contract which includes the terms, if any, under which the breeder will lift that restriction); a health certificate from the puppy's veterinarian; written care instructions; a supply of the food the puppy eats. You may even be given the puppy's favorite toy.

When you arrive home with your puppy, remember - your puppy is a baby Bulldog. Like all babies, he needs lots of love and cuddling, lots of rest and sleep, lots of love and cuddling, lots of good, nourishing food and more love and cuddling.

Moving to a new home, leaving his dam and litter mates and the only humans he has ever really known is a very traumatic experience for the puppy, so try to make the move as easy as possible for him. For the first couple of weeks, try to change his life as little as possible.

Follow the breeders feeding routine. The same times, the same amount, the same brand of food, the same supplements. Feed him in the same place at each meal (feeding in his kennel can help him accept it more readily). Be sure he has a special area all his own for his bed. Give him lots and lots of cuddling and petting. Do not let him play so long and hard that he becomes exhausted.

Sometime during the first week, you should take him to your veterinarian for a check up and get to know you visit. Take along the record of his immunizations and wormings and a stool sample.

Once the puppy is settled securely into his new home, you can begin to introduce him to your way of doing things.

if you want to change the brand of puppy kibble he is eating, the change should be slow and gradual. Substitute a small amount of the new brand with the old brand and slowly increase the ratio of new to old until the old brand is completely replaced with the new.

 

Equipment

A food dish with straight sides and flat bottom. The best material is stainless steel - avoid plastic.

A water dish, stainless steel is best.

A collar and a lead. If you choose a “choke collar” remember to be very careful, as bulldogs do not have a lot of protection over their trachea (throat).  You can easily hurt the puppy by jerking on the lead or dragging the puppy if he is wearing a choke collar.

Nail clippers or grinder.

There are several things which will make life easier and more enjoyable for you and your Bulldog.

First in importance is a wire crate. This comes very close to being a necessity. It is much easier to house train a puppy if he sleeps in a crate. If you travel at all with your dog, he is safer and happier riding in a crate and if you are staying overnight he has a place of his own to sleep in. It is just as important for your dog to be in a crate in the car as it is for you to wear your seat belt. If you do not have a crate, or one won't fit in your car, get him a dog safety car harness. Bulldogs do better in wire crates than the Veri-Kennel type because the air circulation through the wire crates is so much better. Dogs like to have a special "my place" so if you don't have a crate, try one, you and your Bulldog will like it.

A puppy pen. Even though you have a fenced yard, you may want to confine the puppy to or out of a particular area. Puppy pens are easily portable and very handy for keeping a puppy confined to a small area. They are especially useful for a winter puppy. You can put his bed in his crate, put the crate in a puppy pen, and put his papers in a corner of the pen.

If you plan to exhibit your Bulldog you will need a pair of whisker scissors. These are small, sharp, blunt end scissors which you can purchase from a pet store, a dog show vendor or a dog supply catalogue.

A good brush. You can use almost any brush on a Bulldog but the best ones have flexible rubber bristles. You want one small enough to fit your hand comfortably. We use something called a Zoom Groom for loosening the dead hair.

If you travel with your Bulldog you'll need a large insulated water jug so that you'll have "home" water available for him. A small water pan that hooks to the side of his crate is handy.

 

Bulldog Medicine Chest

Vaseline or Aquaphor. Use this on his nose, on his eye wrinkles, any place you need to soothe and waterproof but don't need to medicate. Use it also on the thermometer when you take his temperature.

Plastic Real Lemon. If he gets phlegm in his throat and chokes on it, a couple squirts of juice from the plastic lemon will help clear it out.

A good rectal thermometer.

Clear Eyes, Duolube, etc. for irritated eyes

Aspirin. For minor aches and pains. Most Bulldogs can tolerate aspirin but do not give any other human pain reliever such as Tylenol or Advil. Buffered aspirin such as Bufferin is better than plain aspirin and Ascriptin is better than Bufferin. Remember that the dosage for aspirin, like most pain relief medication, is based primarily on body weight. A Bulldog should never be given more than one tablet at a time or more frequently than every twelve hours. Some Bulldogs are allergic to aspirin, so use with care.

Benadryl. Either capsule or liquid. Use this if the dog is stung by a bee or other insect, and for minor allergies.

Panalog Ointment (from your vet). A good all purpose ointment for minor skin afflictions. Also good for cleaning wrinkles, tail pockets and ears. Do not put in his eyes.

Bag Balm. Also useful for minor skin afflictions.

Pepto-Bismol. For minor stomach upset.

Kaopectate. For minor diarrhea.

Q-tips. Use for applying medication and cleaning ears.

Cotton balls. Use for applying medication, for cleaning and to keep ears dry while bathing.

 

Toys

Never ever give your Bulldog a rawhide toy. Even Bulldog puppies can tear a piece off the rawhide and choke on it.

Puppies like knotted socks to shake and play tug of war with. They also like Nylabone and Gummabone toys. Many like to play with balls, but be sure the ball is too big to lodge in the throat. They like cotton tug toys like Booda Bones. Some Bulldoggers give their puppies and dogs Choo-Hooves and the dogs really like them, but be cautious with these. They are an "only when I can watch you" toy. The only real difference between the toys for a puppy and the toys for an adult Bulldog is size. The puppy gels a fairly small Gummabone, (the adult gets a big one). Just be sure the toy is too big to swallow. Throw a Nyla or Gummabone etc. away before it gets so small the dog can get the entire piece in its mouth. The only things we allow them to play with when we aren’t supervising is a Nylabone or a raw bone (soup bone).

 

Feeding

A Bulldog should eat out of a pan which has a flat bottom and straight sides. Most Bulldoggers use stainless steel because it lasts longer. Do not use plastic either for his food or his water. More than likely he will chew it up, and he could swallow pieces.

Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy four times a day. Two times a day should be sufficient. Feed raw or a grain free kibble. You can feed a puppy kibble that does have grain, such as Wellness Puppy until age 6 months.  For the dog’s entire life after that, a grain free kibble or raw.  Stay far away from corn, wheat and soy. They are the most offensive allergens. We even stay away from treats with those as the main ingredients.

How much you feed him depends on the puppy. In most cases, a growing puppy gets 1 cup twice a day. If the puppy does become obese, you may need to regulate the amount he eats, but do not put a growing puppy on a severely restricted diet unless it is supervised by a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about Bulldog puppies.

We recommend 2 feedings a day for the whole life of the dog.  We feed about 10 hours apart but whatever works into your schedule will work for your puppy.

A Bulldog usually eats puppy kibble until it is 6 months to 9 months old. It does not hurt your Bulldog to change from one brand of dog food to another and then to another and so on as long as each change is done by gradually, substituting more and more of the new brand for the old.

If your Bulldog is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, you may need to start feeding less dog food to keep it from becoming too fat.

Whatever its age, your Bulldog should have fresh water available at all times.

You may also give your Bulldog a fish oil supplement. Fish oil contains essential fatty acids to keep your bulldog in top condition. We feed approximately 1200 mg of fish oil once a day for adults and puppies. If you have questions about other supplements or nutrition in general we recommend http://www.thenaturalk9.net/ for a consultation. Do not over dose. If the directions say "one a day", two is not better.

Treats should usually be dog treats. It won't hurt your Bulldog to give him an occasional bite of meat, vegetables, fruit, soda crackers, ice cream, etc., but do not give him chocolate, grapes or onions. Other good treats are green beans, carrots, and other veggies. Many bulldogs love these!

 

Grooming

If you want to stay ahead of shedding, brushing is your best friend. Most Bulldogs love to be brushed. Use a soft bristle or rubber brush. Start at the rear and brush against the hair. After you've brushed the entire dog against the grain, brush it with the grain. Follow this with a good rub down. This will keep his hair shiny and his skin healthy. During shedding time, spring and fall, you may need to brush more often, give more frequent rubdowns. The idea is to remove the dead hair and distribute the natural oils. We also use a Zoom Groom. Pet stores carry these.

 

Bathing

A Bulldog that receives frequent brushings and rubdowns does not need frequent bathing. Most Bulldoggers bathe their dogs when the dog is dirty - when it obviously needs a bath or the odor tells you! Of course, if you are exhibiting your Bulldog he needs a bath before he goes to the show. A show dog in the ring should be a squeaky clean dog in the ring.

Where do you bathe a Bulldog? Any place you want to and can! Some Bulldoggers have a big deep sink, some use the bath tub, some use the kitchen sink, in the summer some wash the dog on the lawn. You need a place where you can control the dog, where you can easily control the water supply and where you can rinse the dog thoroughly. It's a good idea, especially with a puppy, to take the dog outside to "do his thing" just before you bathe him.

Gather up all the things you will need before you start. You will need: shampoo, any rinses you plan to use, Q-tips, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. You will want a mild, no tears shampoo. Most Bulldoggers use a dog shampoo such as Lambert Kay or Groom-Rite. Some use a baby shampoo such as Johnson & Johnson No Tears or Avon Tearless. Most use a special whitening shampoo for white dogs (Lambert Kay Snowy-Coat, BioGroom Super White, etc.). Many use a special shampoo for red dogs (Ring S Burnished Bronze, etc.). You may on occasion need to use a flea shampoo but since these are quite harsh, don't use one unless you really need to.

Wet the dog thoroughly from just behind the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feel. Be sure his underside is wet, too, not just the top and sides. Apply the shampoo starting at his neck and working back. Work the shampoo in to be sure you get all the way through his hair to the skin. Pay special attention to his paws (wash between the toes), his tail (clean all around the base), and the genital area. On a bitch, be especially careful to clean the vulva. Wet the wash cloth and use it to dampen the dog's face and ears. Put some shampoo on the washcloth and wash the dog's face. Wash the wrinkles over the nose, on the forehead, around the nose and under the eyes. Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and out but don’t pour water or shampoo into the ear. Now rinse. Rinse until you are sure every bit of the dog, especially in the wrinkles and tight places, is thoroughly rinsed and there is no shampoo any place. If you are applying a rinse, do it now, following the instructions. You can use a dog conditioner rinse like Oster Creme Rinse, Oster Coat Conditioner or Francodex Oatmeal Creme Rinse, or you can use a "people" conditioner like L'Oreal Creme. For a white dog, you can use a rinse of 4 Tbs. Mrs. Wright's Bluing, I qt. water, 1/4 cup baking soda. Mix enough bluing into the water to get a darkish blue (not black). Pour the bluing mixture over him and work in with your fingertips. Do not rinse. Do not towel dry. Let the dog drip dry. For red dogs, try VOS Henna Conditioner. (I’ve never “blued” dog)

Dry the dog with towels. Make very sure the ears are dry. Clean any wax carefully using a dry Q-Tip. You can use commercial ear cleaners from a pet store too. Rub a dab of Vaseline or Aquaphor onto his nose to help keep it soft. You can then let him air dry or use a hair dryer to finish the drying. It's best to keep the dog inside until it is completely dry - about two hours.

 

Nails

Most Bulldogs need their toe nails cut on a regular basis - about every two weeks. The nails should be kept as short as possible. You may use dog nail clippers or an electric grinder. Most Bulldoggers use the clippers, either guillotine or scissors type. Which type you use is up to you, but they should be sharp. When the blade begins to dull, replace it or buy new clippers - dull blades can be painful to the dog.

Each Bulldogger seems to have a different way to clip nails. Find the way that works best for you. The important thing is to be able to control the dog so that you do not hurt it. A grooming table is probably the best way. You can put the dog on the floor and scratch its tummy, or hold it between your legs - whatever works. Be especially careful not to cut into the quick. On white nails you can see where the quick begins. On black nails cut just to the curve of the nail. The clippers usually leave a rough edge. Use a good dog nail file to smooth them off. If you use an electric grinder, be very, very careful. It is easy to grind into the quick.

The main thing is to make the experience as pleasant as possible for the dog so be really careful when cutting nails and don't cut into the quick. If you dog takes frequent walks on pavement or such, it will usually wear the nails down, so again, be careful as there may not be very much nail to cut. This is especially true of black nails which seem to wear more than the white ones.

 

Wrinkles

Bulldogs tend to have messy face wrinkles. The older they get, the messier the wrinkles. Seems like the hotter the weather the messier too.  How often you clean these wrinkles depends on the dog. Some do very well if you clean the wrinkles once a week. Some need it on a daily basis. When you clean the wrinkles, wash his nose and apply a good rub of Vaseline or Aquaphor to keep it soft. It's better to clean more often than you think you need to than not often enough. You can clean the wrinkles with a soft, damp cloth and then dry. Or you can wash them using the shampoo you use to bathe the dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and dry thoroughly. One of the best ways is to wipe the wrinkles clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Whatever method you use, be sure to get the deep nose wrinkle clean. You may need to put a soothing ointment in the deep nose wrinkle. If it is irritated Panalog (available from your vet) will help to heal. Diaparene Ointment or Desitin will soothe and dry the wrinkle. This contains zinc oxide, so before you apply it, rub Vaseline into the dog's nose.  A sizable number of Bulldogs have "tear stains" of varying degrees of color. If the stain is bad, in addition to cleaning you may want to try to remove the stain. There are many treatments, you may have to try several before you find one that works for you. Some of the commercial products used are Showes "Pretty Eyes" Stain remover, Bio-Groom cream (to prevent re-staining) and Diamond Eye. You can make a paste of I Tbs. Hydrogen Peroxide and enough corn starch to make a thin paste (some Bulldoggers add I Tbs. Milk of Magnesia to the hydrogen peroxide and mix the cornstarch into that mixture). Apply to the stain, let dry, brush off excess. Apply on a daily basis until the stain in gone, then weekly to keep stain from returning. Another method is to rub the stain with a cotton ball soaked in Boric Acid. Daily until the stain is gone, then weekly. Or use NM Boric Acid ointment (10%) which can be purchased at most any drug store. Another remedy is rubbing a dab of Desitin into the stain to help dry it.  (I like to use cosmetic cotton squares soaked in peroxide to clean the wrinkle, then a Q-tip to put the Desitin in the wrinkle deep. I personally didn’t like the Boric Acid, as I thought it attracted dirt.)

You can tell if you are not cleaning frequently enough when a brown, damp matter accumulates.

 

Fleas

The best way to treat fleas is to prevent them. Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva and can develop really serious skin problems so try to keep the flea population to a minimum. If you do get a bad flea infestation you may need to "bomb" your house or kennel, spray the yard and/or dog runs. Frequent brushing is the first defense. Frequently changed bedding is very important. We do not recommend flea collars. If you find yourself fighting the flea, you may need to give the dog a bath with a good flea shampoo or use an anti-flea rinse when you bathe. The chemicals used in these shampoos are harsh so use them only when necessary and follow instructions carefully. Or ask your vet for a recommendation.  The only flea preventative we recommend is FrontLine as it only affects the system of the flea, not poisoning the dog. We also use Bug Off from www.springtimeinc.com for prevention. Avon Skin so Soft mixed in the rinse water is an effective, non-irritating flea deterrent used by several Bulldoggers. You can also use the Skin so Soft mixed with an equal part of water in a spray bottle, or, if you feel that's a bit too strong, try two capfuls in a pint spray bottle. This is also reported to repel mosquitoes and ticks. Above all else, a clean environment, especially his bed, is the best flea prevention.

 

Bedding

Bedding material used for Bulldogs ranges from straw or wood shavings (for kennel dogs) to special dog beds of all types and prices. The most common is cotton rugs or blankets which can be washed with ease. Don't pamper your Bulldog with a wicker dog bed. He will thoroughly enjoy reducing it to twigs and it really isn't a good thing for him to eat. The fake sheepskin rugs available from most pet stores and dog catalogues make good beds as they are soft and wash and dry with ease. The important thing for bedding is that it be easily washable and provide a soft nesting area for the dog. As long as it meets that requirement, any bedding will do.

 

Bulldogs and Hot Weather

Because a bulldog is a short-faced breed, he cannot tolerate extremely hot weather. This is not to say a bulldog cannot be outside at all in the summer. He can, but you must use common sense. Do not subject him to long walks or rough-housing when the weather is hot and humid. Exercise such as short walks, early in the day, or later when the sun has gone down is best. In really hot, muggy weather, skip the walks and let him outside only for “potty breaks” as high humidity is very hard on a bulldog.

A bulldog can overheat much easier than other breeds of dogs for a couple of reasons. His short-face means his nasal passages are shorter and more convoluted. He also has a smaller trachea in proportion to his size than other dogs. This results in less efficient airflow to the lungs. He also has a larger body mass, taking longer to cool down than a lighter weight dog. As a result, a bulldog overheats quicker and takes longer to cool down than other dogs. And so, it is far better to not let your bullie get overheated in the first place.

Avoid letting your bullie get to the point where he is panting steadily. When he starts to get overheated the sound of his panting will change. It will sound louder and harsher. He is beginning to become dangerously overheated when this change occurs, and you must act fast. If a bulldog pants heavily for too long, his throat will start to swell, resulting in even less oxygen getting into his lungs. Frothy mucus will collect in his throat and can cause him to choke.

If your bulldog is getting to the point where you think he is overheating, there are some things you must do immediately to help him.

1.     CHECK THE COLOR OF HIS TONGUE. If it is still pink, he is not yet at the critical stage. If it is dusky in appearance (looks purplish), don’t waste any time. Immediately get him to the coolest spot you can. Wet down his body with cool, but not cold water. Often the best place to put him is in a basement on a damp, concrete floor. Or near and air-conditioner on a damp towel. Put a fan near by to blow cool air over him and help dissipate the heat faster. Try to keep him calm, so as to not stress him further.

2.     GIVE HIM LEMON JUICE. Squirt the lemon juice down his throat to cut the phlegm that is clogging up his airway. He may vomit a large amount of frothy clear/white mucus. This will help to clear his airway.

3.     GIVE HIM CRUSHED ICE. If he is able to swallow, giving him some crushed ice will help to reduce the swelling in the throat. It will also help to cool him down internally. Do not give large amounts of water. Too much water when a dog is hot can cause dangerous bloating of the stomach, resulting in a life-threatening condition.

4.     CALL YOUR VET. Do not waste any time in getting your bulldog to a cooler spot, wetting him down, and clearing his airway. Once this is done, then call your vet for additional instructions. Every second counts, and if you decide to call the vet first, your dog could collapse while you are on the phone with the vet. The above steps should only take a few minutes and they are critical first-aid in this case.

As you can see, it is far better to not let the bulldog overheat to start with. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER leave a bulldog in a parked car. Even if you crack a window, and car can heat up very quickly.

 

Training

"House" training

The key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area each time, as soon as he wakes up, about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when he's awake, just before his nap or night bedtime. The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. Always praise the puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. Very few dogs will soil their beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night and any time you cannot watch him. If you see the pup "hunting" (sniffing and circling) take him outside immediately. If you see him urinating or defecating in the house, say "NO, NO" and take him outside at once. Do not scold him unless you catch him in the act. Praise for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember, a puppy is a baby, his capacity is small, his muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will succeed in training him to go outside not inside.

 

Lead training

The earlier you start the better, but if your puppy has not had any lead training before you get him, wait a week or so until he's settled comfortably into his new home before you begin.

You will need a light weight "choke chain" collar and a light weight lead. The collar should be long enough to slip over his head with ease and have some room for growth, but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference of his neck. Put the collar on the puppy so that it goes over his neck from his left to right. Fasten the lead to the collar and let the puppy lead you around. If he doesn't move, move a bit and coax him to move after you. Do not ever pull on the lead and drag or choke the puppy. This should be a happy experience for the puppy so give him lots of praise. As he becomes used to walking about with the collar and lead, begin to give little tugs and encourage him to follow you rather than you following him. Always keep him on your left side. Keep his lessons short. Several five to ten minutes sessions a day are better than one half hour session. Do not play with the puppy during his lesson, but do praise him often when he follows you. Cheese can be a great motivator too!

Once he is following you with consistency you can begin taking him on walks around the neighborhood. You will probably need to give him several gently tugs the first few times to keep him with you rather than exploring on his own. You may need to stop and talk to him a few times. Again, do not pull on the lead and drag or choke him. A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the way to control him. Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of praise when he does it right, a quick jerk and release to correct when he doesn't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and he will soon be walking nicely at your side. If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to train him to stand still and let you hold his head. Start this training along with the lead training as early as possible.

 

Problems and Treatments

The second best medical advice any one can give you is, "Find a veterinarian who knows and likes Bulldogs." This is one of the reasons why it's a good idea to get your puppy from a reputable breeder. She/he can usually refer you to a veterinarian who is familiar with Bulldogs and who likes them. Believe it or not - some veterinarians don't like Bulldogs, and no matter how good a veterinarian he/she is, he's not a good one for your Bulldog.

The very best advice is to know your Bulldog. Check the entire dog daily. Know if he isn't eating, if he isn't playing, if he doesn't seem quite right. Know immediately if something is wrong so you can take appropriate action.

There are several minor ailments you can treat at home. Remember that if a home remedy doesn't cure the problem in two days, it's time to take the dog to the veterinarian. Do not keep trying various methods of home medication.

 

Liquid Medications

The easiest way to give a liquid medication is with a syringe. You can get them from your veterinarian or most drug stores. You want at least a 2cc size. Discard the needle. Pull the proper amount of liquid into the syringe, open the dog's mouth and "shoot" the liquid onto the back of his tongue.

 

Pills and capsules

Open the dog's mouth, push the pill or capsule as far down his throat as possible, then hold his mouth shut and stroke his throat until he swallows. This has been known to work. Or wrap the pill or capsule in a bit of ground beef or cheese and feed it to the dog. This usually works. (My favorite is to put the pill in a chunk of Velveeta cheese. Its soft enough to completely “hide” the pill and they never know that they just ate the pill.)

 

Vomiting

For minor upset stomach Pepto Bismol or a similar medicine works best. Dose is according to the dog's weight. If there is hard vomiting or if the upset lasts more than 24 hours, take the dog to your veterinarian.

 

Diarrhea

Kaopectate is most usually prescribed for minor diarrhea. Dose amount depends on the dog's weight. If the diarrhea continues longer than 24 hours or if there is blood in the stool, take the dog to the veterinarian. Personally I like Pepto better because it comes in pill form and it seems to not be as easy to ‘over do’.

 

Hot Spots

These are red, weepy, itchy spots. No one seems to really know what causes them. It could be fleas, food, allergies, etc. Clean the area thoroughly. You can wash with shampoo, rinse and dry. Or clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Then apply a medication such as Panalog, Bag Balm, Sulfadene, or 1% cortisone cream (you may need to get this from your own doctor). Clean and apply medication daily. You should see improvement by the second day, if not, take the dog to the veterinarian.

 

Interdigital Cysts

This is another problem that no one seems to be sure what the cause is but you'll know one when you see an angry red swelling pop up between the dog's toes. First examine the paw carefully, especially the underside between the pads to be sure there is no foreign matter (a thorn or such). If there is, take it out. Clean the area. Remedies include: (I) Soaking the paw in warm water and Epsom Salts or Massengale Douche solution, dry and rub in Panalog. (2) Desenex foot powder. (3) ,Preparation H. (4) Division 5 Bulletin formula. Have your veterinarian make this up for you One part 60% DMSO, one part Gentavet solution 50 mg. per ml. Apply one drop per day; rub in with a Q Tip. Do NOT use more than one drop, do NOT apply more frequently than once a day. If you start application at the first sign, this solution will prevent the cyst from developing. With all these treatments, it's best to continue the treatment for two to three days after the cyst is gone.

 

Fungus Spots

These are somewhat like hot spots, but they are not weepy. Be sure you clean away all the "scabby" material. Wash the area and treat with Panalog, Keflex, or any good anti-fungal ointment. You can use Demorex shampoo or a sulfur based soap for the washing. If this isn’t doing the trick call me and I have another option for you.

 

Facial Acne or Eczema

Bulldogs are forever putting their faces into all kinds of strange places. Some are susceptible to topical bacterial infections. The dog gets pimples on his face and chin. Usually you can clear these up just by washing and rubbing in an antibiotic ointment like Neosporin. Or you can try OXY10 (benzoil peroxide) which you can purchase at a drug store. If they persist, you will need to get an oral anti-biotic medication from your veterinarian.

 

Eyes

Dust, wind, pollen, the things that make your eyes burn and water have the same effect on your Bulldog. You can rinse the eyes out with a solution such as Clear Eyes. If the eyes are badly irritated, use a contact lens ointment such as Bausch & Lomb Duolube. For any other eye ailment, take the dog to your veterinarian.

 

Cherry Eye

The gland which normally resides under the lower eye lid at the inside corner of the eye will sometimes "pop" out. This is not as horrible as it appears to be and does not require emergency treatment. It does require treatment at the earliest possible time by a veterinarian recommended for "Cherry Eye". The quicker the dog gets treatment the better the chance for successful treatment without removing the gland. Removal of the gland often results in a "dry" eye.

 

Tail

Some Bulldog's have their tail set in a pocket. If yours does, you will need to make a special effort to keep that pocket clean and dry. Wipe it out frequently. You may need to use cotton balls rather than a wash cloth if the pocket is tight. Be sure to dry it thoroughly and apply an ointment such as Panalog, or a drying powder. ESPECIALLY AFTER A BATH OR SWIM

 

Temperature

You take his temperature just as you take a small baby's - rectally. Use a good rectal thermometer, lubricate generously with Vaseline, insert gently, hold onto the thermometer dogs have been known to "suck" them in!, wait about five minutes, pull out and read. Normal temperature for most dogs is from 100.5 to 101.

 

Ice

Start giving your Bulldog pieces of ice to eat when he is still a small puppy so that he learns to like it. Luckily, most Bulldogs do. This is a great way to cool down a hot dog. Blocks of ice make a great summer time toy.

 

Insect Stings

If your Bulldog is stung by a bee or other insect, give him Benadryl (either capsule or liquid) and watch him closely for the next half hour. You may also apply an ice pack to the area where he was stung if you know where it is. If the area around the sting swells and hardens, if hives appear, if he seems to have difficulty breathing - rush him to the veterinarian. This is no time to dally, your dog's life depends on quick treatment. If the bite is in or near his airway this is also no time to dally. Swelling in the mouth and throat can be deadly.

 

Final Thoughts

Your bullie is a remarkable animal. He is a wonderful companion, willing to love unconditionally. He is an adaptable fellow and ready to accept all kinds of foolish requests by his master. He is eager to please, but can be extremely stubborn, if he feels your requests are unreasonable in his eyes. The bulldog is a man-made breed. He is not ordinary, and needs some special treatment. If your bulldog has some kind of physical problem, take him to a vet well-familiar with their unique anatomy. Don’t take your bullie to the vet around the corner just because he/she is close by and seems nice. Your bulldog deserves competent veterinary care. A vet once said that a bulldog is like a fancy sports car. A pleasure to own, but more apt to need occasional adjustments. That is not to say that all bulldogs are in constant need of veterinary care. However, because of their exaggerated physical make-up, they are more prone, as a breed, to be in need of veterinary services. Bulldogs are very special creatures, as a new owner of one, we welcome you into our ranks. You are now a bulldogger. 

 

J  I am more than happy to answer questions for my puppy and dog homes. Please call if you need/want to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We recommend raw meat feeding and premade mixes like those from The Honest Kitchen!

 


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